Today we piled onto the bus and headed into the West Bank to visit, well get a view of St. George's Monastery. It was another forty-five plus minute walk to the monastery, which is built into the cliffside of a valley between two cliffs. We viewed it from atop the opposite cliff. It was a really neat looking complex, I'll have pictures up when I get home.
After this monastery we headed to Jericho and took a gondola up to the Mount of Temptation. There's another monastery up here and in their chapel there is a rock traditionally associated with the Temptation of Jesus.
When we got back down from this monastery we grabbed lunch and then began the drive to Galilee. We stopped off at a site on the Jordan River to renew our Baptismal Covenant. The river was much smaller than I expected, and the water was sort of mucky and not that inviting looking.
We left the Jordan and drove another half hour to where we're staying for the weekend. this place is beautiful. It's the guest house of a monastery (a lot of these today) but is essentially a nice beach side hotel. A bunch of us sat around admiring the view over the Sea of Galilee having a few beers and talked for a while before dinner. It's been great getting to know this group as we travel and learn about this land together.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Thursday, March 17th
Today was another unsettling day for me. We began that morning by visiting the Al-Haram Ash-Sharif which is the site of the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque. We spent an hour or so here, after a brief explanation from Nasser, our guide, and a reflection by Andrew, the course director, we were allowed to roam about. I was quite uncomfortable here, I felt like I was intruding on another's worship. I was reminded of the time I went to the National Cathedral when Desmond Tutu was leading a discussion after the service. As we went up for the Eucharist people started filling in on the sides and started to poach seats. It was a very uncomfortable and upsetting experience for me. Being at the Dome of the Rock and the mosque, I felt like I was doing that to people there truing to pray. After this we went to the Wailing Wall. I had the same experience here, the sense that I was intruding on another's worship.
The rest of the day was much less intrusive for me but after these two things I was mentally worn out, on top of being physically worn out from everything we've been doing here. We went to St. Anne's church which has on its site the Pools of Bethesda. St. Anne's has amazing acoustics so we gathered in there and sang a hymn led by Kevin. The effect the building had on the sound was glorious. After this was lunch and from lunch we went to a museum by the western wall that showed excavations of the Second Temple. Here we also were able to walk on the steps that led up to the Temple, the steps that Jesus, and many others, would have used.
After dinner we had a guest come and speak with us about the Palestinian view of the peace process. By this point I was very exhausted so I didn't take in as much as I could have probably, but his view point was about what I expected. It was interesting to hear all the facts he brought with him, especially about the settlements in the west bank.
It was a difficult day for me. I felt very intrusive for a better part of the morning and this really wore me out for the rest of the Day. The Dome and the Wall were both very amazing and moving, but I couldn't remove that sense of being an intruder on someone else's prayer. The struggle between pilgrim and tourist I felt at Bethlehem was a similar struggle, there I was the pilgrim and was weary of my pilgrimage being lessened or diminished by the sense of being a tourist. Today I was conscious that I was the tourist and aware that my presence could have a detrimental effect upon the experience of true pilgrims and worshipers.
The rest of the day was much less intrusive for me but after these two things I was mentally worn out, on top of being physically worn out from everything we've been doing here. We went to St. Anne's church which has on its site the Pools of Bethesda. St. Anne's has amazing acoustics so we gathered in there and sang a hymn led by Kevin. The effect the building had on the sound was glorious. After this was lunch and from lunch we went to a museum by the western wall that showed excavations of the Second Temple. Here we also were able to walk on the steps that led up to the Temple, the steps that Jesus, and many others, would have used.
After dinner we had a guest come and speak with us about the Palestinian view of the peace process. By this point I was very exhausted so I didn't take in as much as I could have probably, but his view point was about what I expected. It was interesting to hear all the facts he brought with him, especially about the settlements in the west bank.
It was a difficult day for me. I felt very intrusive for a better part of the morning and this really wore me out for the rest of the Day. The Dome and the Wall were both very amazing and moving, but I couldn't remove that sense of being an intruder on someone else's prayer. The struggle between pilgrim and tourist I felt at Bethlehem was a similar struggle, there I was the pilgrim and was weary of my pilgrimage being lessened or diminished by the sense of being a tourist. Today I was conscious that I was the tourist and aware that my presence could have a detrimental effect upon the experience of true pilgrims and worshipers.
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
Wednesday, March 16th
Today was a day off from the program, but they arranged an option trip to Masada, Qumran and a beach on the Dead Sea for those who were interested (everyone ended up going except for most of the staff).
Masada, our first stop, was about an hour and a half away so we left earlier than usual. I realized early on that I forgot my camera and my shorts in my room. The camera wasn't too big a deal since the staff member who went with us is taking a lot of pictures and posting them online. The shorts, however, meant no floating for me. We arrived at Masada, got our tickets and headed up in the cable car (we started about one thousand feet below sea level and ended up about one hundred feet below sea level, I think). Masada is a series of ruins, of a fortress and palace, from the time of Herod the Great on an isolated plateau (although built prior to Herod the Great and modified and used afterwards by the Zealots fleeing from the Romans). The view from Masada of the Dead Sea and the surrounding mountains on both sides was like nothing I've ever seen, just wait until I get pictures from Rod. Aside from the view, seeing and learning about the engineering feats they accomplished thousands of years was great. The water system they developed was amazing. Through cisterns, some aqueducts and tunnels built into the mountain side they were able to harness enough water from the flash floods to last nearly a year.
After Masada we headed to Qumran and saw the ruins of the Essenes. These were less impressive than those at Masada, but it was cool to see where the Dead Sea Scrolls came from. We ate lunch here and then headed off to the beach. As I said, I forgot my shorts and I didn't think it worth it to buy a bathing suit so I ended up sitting with another spectacular view of the Dead Sea and the Kingdom of Jordan beyond and I read (there were actually only a few people who went in, so most of us ended up doing this or something similar). After the beach we headed back to the college and now I'm waiting for Evening Prayer and Dinner.
Masada, our first stop, was about an hour and a half away so we left earlier than usual. I realized early on that I forgot my camera and my shorts in my room. The camera wasn't too big a deal since the staff member who went with us is taking a lot of pictures and posting them online. The shorts, however, meant no floating for me. We arrived at Masada, got our tickets and headed up in the cable car (we started about one thousand feet below sea level and ended up about one hundred feet below sea level, I think). Masada is a series of ruins, of a fortress and palace, from the time of Herod the Great on an isolated plateau (although built prior to Herod the Great and modified and used afterwards by the Zealots fleeing from the Romans). The view from Masada of the Dead Sea and the surrounding mountains on both sides was like nothing I've ever seen, just wait until I get pictures from Rod. Aside from the view, seeing and learning about the engineering feats they accomplished thousands of years was great. The water system they developed was amazing. Through cisterns, some aqueducts and tunnels built into the mountain side they were able to harness enough water from the flash floods to last nearly a year.
After Masada we headed to Qumran and saw the ruins of the Essenes. These were less impressive than those at Masada, but it was cool to see where the Dead Sea Scrolls came from. We ate lunch here and then headed off to the beach. As I said, I forgot my shorts and I didn't think it worth it to buy a bathing suit so I ended up sitting with another spectacular view of the Dead Sea and the Kingdom of Jordan beyond and I read (there were actually only a few people who went in, so most of us ended up doing this or something similar). After the beach we headed back to the college and now I'm waiting for Evening Prayer and Dinner.
Tuesday, March 15th "The Birth of the Messiah"
Today was a day of mixed emotions for me. We headed out in the morning to Bethlehem. Outside the city we stopped at the Shepherd's Fields and spent about an hour and a half or so there. It was very beautiful there (and this is in its reduced size, it used to be all fields but now it's cut off by a few settlements and towns popping up around it, I would love to have seen it when it was just fields). It was also surprisingly quiet. For a good chunk of the time we were there it was only our group, a few other groups came in but they quickly headed out. After we left here we stopped at an olive wood coop. There was a lot of really beautiful stuff here, but most of it was really expensive and I'd have no use for it, so I only picked up a few small things (a Jerusalem cross for my wall, and a few small carved pieces).
Lunch was really neat. We went to a place called something like the Shepherds Tent Restaurant. It was a big tent with booths and benches around tables. The booths and benches were covered in blankets and pillows, it had a desert feel to it. For lunch we had pita and the accompanying dishes (humus, baba ganoush, and all the rest), it was delicious, and the atmosphere was fun.
After lunch we headed into the city to visit the Basilica of the Nativity. First I was a little perturbed by the fact that it was such a large impoverished city, no O Little Town of Bethlehem, but O City with an unemployment rate in the 40's of Bethlehem... In the Basilica I experienced a mix of awe and frustration/cynicism. It is beautiful, the area around the Cave of the Nativity was filled, and I mean filled, with scents and icons, and hanging lamps (although some of these had Christmas tree ornaments on the bottom which I found comical). What bothered me about the Basilica was the sense of tourist site it gave me. I had trouble really being present to this Holy Site of my tradition, because of this sense of lining up and taking pictures, the sense of being a tourist pilgrimage. This continued to bother me throughout the day, it's something consistent throughout this area, but it really struck me here (maybe because it's the first place we had to wait in line to see something and then were sort of ushered through it to make way for the group behind us). It must have really been something to behold without this spirit of tourism.
When we came back we had a little time before Evening Prayer. Evening prayer was led by a friend of mine from St. Paul's K Street who is over here working with the State Department. After the service we went out to dinner. It was great catching up with him and hearing about his experiences working here. I also hadn't been into West Jerusalem yet so it was good to get over and see it. Very different from East Jerusalem where the Cathedral is, much more westernized.
Lunch was really neat. We went to a place called something like the Shepherds Tent Restaurant. It was a big tent with booths and benches around tables. The booths and benches were covered in blankets and pillows, it had a desert feel to it. For lunch we had pita and the accompanying dishes (humus, baba ganoush, and all the rest), it was delicious, and the atmosphere was fun.
After lunch we headed into the city to visit the Basilica of the Nativity. First I was a little perturbed by the fact that it was such a large impoverished city, no O Little Town of Bethlehem, but O City with an unemployment rate in the 40's of Bethlehem... In the Basilica I experienced a mix of awe and frustration/cynicism. It is beautiful, the area around the Cave of the Nativity was filled, and I mean filled, with scents and icons, and hanging lamps (although some of these had Christmas tree ornaments on the bottom which I found comical). What bothered me about the Basilica was the sense of tourist site it gave me. I had trouble really being present to this Holy Site of my tradition, because of this sense of lining up and taking pictures, the sense of being a tourist pilgrimage. This continued to bother me throughout the day, it's something consistent throughout this area, but it really struck me here (maybe because it's the first place we had to wait in line to see something and then were sort of ushered through it to make way for the group behind us). It must have really been something to behold without this spirit of tourism.
When we came back we had a little time before Evening Prayer. Evening prayer was led by a friend of mine from St. Paul's K Street who is over here working with the State Department. After the service we went out to dinner. It was great catching up with him and hearing about his experiences working here. I also hadn't been into West Jerusalem yet so it was good to get over and see it. Very different from East Jerusalem where the Cathedral is, much more westernized.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Monday, March 14th "Rivers in the Desert"
Up until today the weather had been wet, cold or a combination of the two. Today was a beautiful warm day, which was great because we went out to the Judean Wilderness in the morning. The spot we went to was about a twenty minute drive away. We drove out into the desert and started on these windy roads and then pulled off onto a little parking lot on the side of one of these roads. Walking down a rocky path which led to an old road brought us to an old British pumping station. From here we followed a little stream into the wilderness. After a little while we stopped and Andrew, the course director, gave a little reflection on the wilderness and then we had a little over an hour to wander around. I explored for about half the time then found a spot to sit and read some psalms. The wilderness was incredibly beautiful, the stark contrast of the lush wildlife surrounding the water only feet away from the desert rock (I'll post pictures when I get home). I don't know exactly what I was expecting or imagining when I read the biblical accounts of this wilderness, but it certainly wasn't this and I was definitely surprised in a breathtaking way.
Not much happened the rest of the day. A lot of reading, a little sermon prep. I also had my second cup of real coffee since getting here, it was wonderful. Although, I had been getting used to the instant coffee they have available for us at the college and now I'll probably have to readjust to it again. That is one thing I won't miss about this place, the terrible terrible coffee. At least there's good stuff nearby.
We're going to start traveling a little more now. Tomorrow we head to Bethlehem, the day after to Qumran, Masada and the Dead Sea, a couple days after that we're off to Galilee for a couple of days. Things are getting more and more exciting and are starting to pick up.
Not much happened the rest of the day. A lot of reading, a little sermon prep. I also had my second cup of real coffee since getting here, it was wonderful. Although, I had been getting used to the instant coffee they have available for us at the college and now I'll probably have to readjust to it again. That is one thing I won't miss about this place, the terrible terrible coffee. At least there's good stuff nearby.
We're going to start traveling a little more now. Tomorrow we head to Bethlehem, the day after to Qumran, Masada and the Dead Sea, a couple days after that we're off to Galilee for a couple of days. Things are getting more and more exciting and are starting to pick up.
Sunday, March 13th "O Worship the Lord"
Today was mostly a free day. I meant to go to the Arabic service at St. George's Cathedral but didn't make it. It worked out though that by going to the later English service I was able to meet a priest who was assisting at that service who used to be connected with St. Mary's in Portsmouth and lived in North Kingstown. My allergies were pretty nasty all day so I spent the rest of the day laying low and reading.
After dinner we had an Israel come in to speak with us about his view on the peace process. He is a member of the Israeli Army and also the Director of Kids4Peace (www.kids4peacejerusalem.org). He had a very interesting story, he was raised a hasidic Jew in an ultra orthodox city, where he had never spoken to women outside of immediate family or anyone that was not also ultra orthodox. When he was eighteen he left the community to join the army and then eventually started K4P. He struggles with his army service but says that ultimately he wants to be there because he is able to do his service as the Director of K4P, he is able to bring dignity and his desire for peace to the work he does for the service (he serves in a unit that collects body parts after explosions).
I really enjoyed hearing from him, both his story and about the progress K4P is making. I think, however, it would have been interesting to hear a more pro-zionist voice. I don't know how well that would have worked there though, it may not be received too well at all. Still, it was nice to have a fairly moderate view.
I was very impressed with the K4P program. The way they bring the kids together and the fellowship and learning that happens was very inspiring. It has me wondering about possibility of interfaith youth events back home. Not that we have problems like here, but the mutual learning that could happen would be great.
After dinner we had an Israel come in to speak with us about his view on the peace process. He is a member of the Israeli Army and also the Director of Kids4Peace (www.kids4peacejerusalem.org). He had a very interesting story, he was raised a hasidic Jew in an ultra orthodox city, where he had never spoken to women outside of immediate family or anyone that was not also ultra orthodox. When he was eighteen he left the community to join the army and then eventually started K4P. He struggles with his army service but says that ultimately he wants to be there because he is able to do his service as the Director of K4P, he is able to bring dignity and his desire for peace to the work he does for the service (he serves in a unit that collects body parts after explosions).
I really enjoyed hearing from him, both his story and about the progress K4P is making. I think, however, it would have been interesting to hear a more pro-zionist voice. I don't know how well that would have worked there though, it may not be received too well at all. Still, it was nice to have a fairly moderate view.
I was very impressed with the K4P program. The way they bring the kids together and the fellowship and learning that happens was very inspiring. It has me wondering about possibility of interfaith youth events back home. Not that we have problems like here, but the mutual learning that could happen would be great.
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Saturday, March 12th "Explorations"
Today we were broken into small groups and sent to explore the Old City. Each group was given a Quarter to go to and interact with the locals and learn more about the people there than to be actual tourists. My group was sent to the Muslim Quarter. A few minutes after entering the Quarter through Herod's Gate we stopped to look at a map and decide where to go. While we were standing a man came up and asked if we needed help. We explained what we were doing and he gave us directions to good places to see, then before leaving he invited us to come back to his home for tea and coffee. He spoke with us for a while regarding his experience of living in Jerusalem. His hospitality was very touching and inspiring. After this we walked around the Muslim Quarter, and in and out of the other Quarters. Eventually we found ourselves at Christ Church and were given a tour of the cistern ruins underneath one of their buildings that were from the gardens of Herod's Palace. We also made our way to XXX Lutheran Church and went up the bell tower where we had a fantastic view of the entire city.
We regrouped in the late afternoon back at the college to share our experiences. It was great to hear about what the other groups did and who they met. They each had their own interesting experiences in their Quarters.
I'm still blown away by the hospitality that was shown to my group today. I can't imagine that happening in a city back home. This man was a shop keeper in the Muslim Quarter and had no connection to us at all. I was a little nervous at first but I'm very glad to have been with my group and to be stretched past my comfort zone so I could experience that hospitality. It was definitely something I will remember for a while.
We regrouped in the late afternoon back at the college to share our experiences. It was great to hear about what the other groups did and who they met. They each had their own interesting experiences in their Quarters.
I'm still blown away by the hospitality that was shown to my group today. I can't imagine that happening in a city back home. This man was a shop keeper in the Muslim Quarter and had no connection to us at all. I was a little nervous at first but I'm very glad to have been with my group and to be stretched past my comfort zone so I could experience that hospitality. It was definitely something I will remember for a while.
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